Welcome to my site – here you will find a growing resource of Scottish, UK and World rock, ice and mixed climbing information as well as a tour of my life, passion and drive for climbing, mountaineering and the outdoors in all its forms.
Enjoy – Scott Muir Nov 2006
Supported by some of the world’s best brands I have been climbing as a full-time athlete for over 6 years. I’ve clocked up over 16 years of climbing experience exploring and guiding repeats and first ascents of routes and peaks around the globe up to 7000m.
Winter Climbing has always been my big passion and over the years I’ve stamped my place in world climbing by establishing some of the worlds hardest mixed routes, including (up to 2006) the hardest route on Chalk (Freedom Fighter C10+), Norway’s (Fusion M10) and Italy’s hardest sport mixed (Tsunami M12) and until winter (05/06) the worlds most sustained multi pitch mixed route (Jedi Master WI3, M10- M10+/11, M9+, WI4). I have made significant first British repeats, world second or early ascents of almost all of the Worlds Hardest Mixed Routes including the second ascents of Europe’s Game Over M13 and America’s Jedi Mind Tricks M13.
In Scotland I’ve completed over 360+ winter routes, my first VII, 7 being Messiah at 17, and first ascents of routes like Ben Udlaidh’s hardest route Fontainalia VIII, 9. I’m also one of the few Mountain Instructors to work at the highest levels of performance coaching in the true sense of the word ‘Long Term Coaching’. I’ve guided clients on second ascents of VII,7’s and continental multi pitch WI5+/6’s and M7/8s. I attained MIC level in 1 year 7 months (one of the fastest passes ever).
I was also one of the youngest people to join the Scottish Mountaineering Club at 19, a year I also made the first ascent Alpine Style of 5654m Indian Kulu Eiger via The Mask ED1, E1, A1 Scottish V. I also compete in World Cup Ice Climbing Competitions such as Saas Fee and Val Daone.
I am a Sports Development Committee Member of the Mc of S, ex-executive and safety and training committee member and now coach the Scottish Youth Team North. I am the countries main driving force behind Dry Tooling, introducing and developing the sport in the UK. I have organised the countries first Competitions in this discipline and they are now in there 5th successful year. These Comps have matured into the main national competition ‘The Scottish Ice and Mixed Masters’. I have introduced Sport Mixed Climbing to Scotland, opening the scene with Crossroads M6 on Beinn Udlaidh, the first of many more to come.
Over the years I have been fortunate enough to make numerous appearances on high profile Television and Radio Documentaries such as Channel Fours ‘Climbing for the Fatherland’, BBC 2’s Battle of the Books’, BBC 2’s the ‘Adventure Show’, STV’s ‘The Great Outdoors’, Sky’s and Chanel Fours ‘Bonington’s Secret Mountain’, BBC 1’s ‘Arctic Challenge’ and many times on BBC News and Reporting Scotland. I also have my own DVD ‘A Fist Full of Steel’. In August 06 I built my own training facility and one of Scotland’s Best Indoor Climbing Walls with Extreme Dream in Aviemore. All my years of climbing, guiding and coaching experience have gone into the design of this centre, focusing on a facility that holistically develops climbers in training and strives for a totally non-elitist atmosphere. A good wall needs more than just good surfaces.
I’m always on the hunt for new projects and routes and this site is my forum and outlet for what goes on, what’s in my mind and what others are up to. It may not always be to your liking, so if you’re not up for the ride go somewhere else. Otherwise read on, laugh and enjoy and be inspired to think and climb for yourself and take climbing to the next level.
I’ve had a great life so far and feel like I could have filled every second twice, if I had the chance. I hope you enjoy my site, feel the passion and drive that I have for my sport and leave it psyched to follow your own path to success.
Be sure to visit my news page to see what I’m up to and what’s new – you’ll hear it all here first! Most importantly enjoy your climbing.
Scott